--- title: "Grill signal Not hot on HI or SEAR" description: "Grill signal Not hot on HI or SEAR: dCS grill · no code is displayed — a supply symptom in most cases." url: "https://dcsmiami.support/error-codes/grill-not-hot-on-high/" date_modified: "2026-09-14" Appliance type: "bbq-grill" --- # Grill signal Not hot on HI or SEAR ### What the appliance is actually reporting Everything works and nothing is hot enough, which is nearly always about how much gas is arriving rather than about the burners. A cylinder whose flow limiting device has activated is the classic version — it passes enough to light and run gently, and never enough for a sear. Beyond that it is the regulator, a supply that collapses under load, or burners so restricted that they cannot pass their rated flow. Time matters too: a grill that has not been given fifteen minutes to come up with the hood down is not underperforming, it is not finished preheating. ### Where this appears, and which table it belongs to On the appliance’s own display. Photograph it before you cut the power: a display that has been cleared has taken the evidence with it, and there is no way to ask the machine for it again. Then check the model, because this make changed hands in 2016 and the two generations share no code string. The same characters mean different things on a Classic ERC oven, an ER-series range and a Modernist induction cooktop, and a meaning read off the wrong table is worse than no meaning at all. ### Which machines this one applies to no code is displayed — a supply symptom in most cases. The same number on a different appliance of this make is a different page and often a different repair, which is why this archive is organized by appliance rather than by number. This maker documents codes on 4 of the appliance types this site publishes — bbq grill, cooktop, oven and range — and publishes none at all for bbq grill, beverage center, outdoor kitchen appliance, range and range hood. Those appliances have symptom pages here and no code pages, which is the honest answer rather than borrowing a table from the machine next door. ### What to do about it - Give it a full preheat with the hood down before judging it. Fifteen minutes is not a formality on a grill this size. - If it is on LP, turn everything off, close the cylinder valve, wait a minute, then open the valve slowly before relighting. That resets a tripped limiting device. - If it still will not sear, the supply is measured under load. A regulator that is perfect at rest tells you very little. ### Where this goes next The job this usually becomes is [diagnostic visit](/services/diagnostic-visit/), and that page carries a starting figure and the reasons that move it. If it turns out to be nothing — and on this make a real share of these are modes, reminders and settings rather than problems — the visit ends there and you pay the diagnostic and nothing else, or call [(305) 526-4714](tel:+13055264714) and describe what the panel is doing before booking anything. no code is displayed — a supply symptom in most cases What the lights are telling you What the appliance is actually reporting Everything works and nothing is hot enough, which is nearly always about how much gas is arriving rather than about the burners. A cylinder whose flow limiting device has activated is the classic version — it passes enough to light and run gently, and never enough for a sear. Beyond that it is the regulator, a supply that collapses under load, or burners so restricted that they cannot pass their rated flow. Time matters too: a grill that has not been given fifteen minutes to come up with the hood down is not underperforming, it is not finished preheating. Where this appears, and which table it belongs to On the appliance’s own display. Photograph it before you cut the power: a display that has been cleared has taken the evidence with it, and there is no way to ask the machine for it again. Then check the model, because this make changed hands in 2016 and the two generations share no code string. The same characters mean different things on a Classic ERC oven, an ER-series range and a Modernist induction cooktop, and a meaning read off the wrong table is worse than no meaning at all. Which machines this one applies to no code is displayed — a supply symptom in most cases. The same number on a different appliance of this make is a different page and often a different repair, which is why this archive is organized by appliance rather than by number. This maker documents codes on 4 of the appliance types this site publishes — bbq grill, cooktop, oven and range — and publishes none at all for bbq grill, beverage center, outdoor kitchen appliance, range and range hood. Those appliances have symptom pages here and no code pages, which is the honest answer rather than borrowing a table from the machine next door. What to do about it Give it a full preheat with the hood down before judging it. Fifteen minutes is not a formality on a grill this size. If it is on LP, turn everything off, close the cylinder valve, wait a minute, then open the valve slowly before relighting. That resets a tripped limiting device. If it still will not sear, the supply is measured under load. A regulator that is perfect at rest tells you very little. Where this goes next The job this usually becomes is diagnostic visit, and that page carries a starting figure and the reasons that move it. If it turns out to be nothing — and on this make a real share of these are modes, reminders and settings rather than problems — the visit ends there and you pay the diagnostic and nothing else, or call [(305) 526-4714](tel:+13055264714) and describe what the panel is doing before booking anything. --- **[Read full article: Grill signal Not hot on HI or SEAR](https://dcsmiami.support/error-codes/grill-not-hot-on-high/)**