--- title: "Grill signal The grill will not light" description: "Grill signal The grill will not light: dCS grill · no code is displayed — work backwards from the supply." url: "https://dcsmiami.support/error-codes/grill-will-not-light/" date_modified: "2026-09-14" Appliance type: "bbq-grill" --- # Grill signal The grill will not light ### What the appliance is actually reporting Three separate systems can produce this and they are checked from the far end inwards: the supply, the ignition, then the burner. Working the other way round is how people end up replacing an ignitor on a grill whose cylinder valve was never fully open. The single most useful test costs nothing — if a burner lights from a match but not from the ignitor, the gas is arriving and the problem is the spark. ### Where this appears, and which table it belongs to On the appliance’s own display. Photograph it before you cut the power: a display that has been cleared has taken the evidence with it, and there is no way to ask the machine for it again. Then check the model, because this make changed hands in 2016 and the two generations share no code string. The same characters mean different things on a Classic ERC oven, an ER-series range and a Modernist induction cooktop, and a meaning read off the wrong table is worse than no meaning at all. ### Which machines this one applies to no code is displayed — work backwards from the supply. The same number on a different appliance of this make is a different page and often a different repair, which is why this archive is organized by appliance rather than by number. This maker documents codes on 4 of the appliance types this site publishes — bbq grill, cooktop, oven and range — and publishes none at all for bbq grill, beverage center, outdoor kitchen appliance, range and range hood. Those appliances have symptom pages here and no code pages, which is the honest answer rather than borrowing a table from the machine next door. ### What to do about it - Check the supply first: the cylinder valve fully open, or the wall valve on natural gas, and whether the cylinder has been changed recently. - Open the valve slowly. Opening it quickly can trip the cylinder’s own flow limiting device, which then passes too little gas to light. - Please do not keep pressing the ignitor with the dial on and gas flowing. If it has not lit in a few attempts, turn everything off and let it clear. ### Where this goes next The job this usually becomes is [diagnostic visit](/services/diagnostic-visit/), and that page carries a starting figure and the reasons that move it. If it turns out to be nothing — and on this make a real share of these are modes, reminders and settings rather than problems — the visit ends there and you pay the diagnostic and nothing else, or call [(305) 526-4714](tel:+13055264714) and describe what the panel is doing before booking anything. no code is displayed — work backwards from the supply What the lights are telling you What the appliance is actually reporting Three separate systems can produce this and they are checked from the far end inwards: the supply, the ignition, then the burner. Working the other way round is how people end up replacing an ignitor on a grill whose cylinder valve was never fully open. The single most useful test costs nothing — if a burner lights from a match but not from the ignitor, the gas is arriving and the problem is the spark. Where this appears, and which table it belongs to On the appliance’s own display. Photograph it before you cut the power: a display that has been cleared has taken the evidence with it, and there is no way to ask the machine for it again. Then check the model, because this make changed hands in 2016 and the two generations share no code string. The same characters mean different things on a Classic ERC oven, an ER-series range and a Modernist induction cooktop, and a meaning read off the wrong table is worse than no meaning at all. Which machines this one applies to no code is displayed — work backwards from the supply. The same number on a different appliance of this make is a different page and often a different repair, which is why this archive is organized by appliance rather than by number. This maker documents codes on 4 of the appliance types this site publishes — bbq grill, cooktop, oven and range — and publishes none at all for bbq grill, beverage center, outdoor kitchen appliance, range and range hood. Those appliances have symptom pages here and no code pages, which is the honest answer rather than borrowing a table from the machine next door. What to do about it Check the supply first: the cylinder valve fully open, or the wall valve on natural gas, and whether the cylinder has been changed recently. Open the valve slowly. Opening it quickly can trip the cylinder’s own flow limiting device, which then passes too little gas to light. Please do not keep pressing the ignitor with the dial on and gas flowing. If it has not lit in a few attempts, turn everything off and let it clear. Where this goes next The job this usually becomes is diagnostic visit, and that page carries a starting figure and the reasons that move it. If it turns out to be nothing — and on this make a real share of these are modes, reminders and settings rather than problems — the visit ends there and you pay the diagnostic and nothing else, or call [(305) 526-4714](tel:+13055264714) and describe what the panel is doing before booking anything. --- **[Read full article: Grill signal The grill will not light](https://dcsmiami.support/error-codes/grill-will-not-light/)**