---
title: "Range burner ignition repair"
description: "DCS range burner ignition repair — clicking without lighting, lighting on the second attempt, or one burner that has given up while the others are perfect."
url: "https://dcsmiami.support/services/range-burner-ignition-repair/"
date_modified: "2026-09-14"
Appliance type: "cooktop, range"
---


# DCS range burner ignition repair

### One free check before anybody is called

On a sealed burner the causes sit in a short list and the first of them costs nothing: a cap put back rotated, or resting on a crumb, will spark all day and never light. After that it is a wet or crazed electrode, a port blocked by a boil-over, or the switch behind the dial. One observation separates two of those immediately — clicking that stops when the flame catches is the ignition doing its job, while clicking that carries on afterwards is a switch that has lost track of the dial. And moisture in an electrode after a thorough clean is temporary rather than terminal, which is why we test before replacing.

What this involves

Lift and re-seat the cap first: it costs nothing and settles a good share of these

Clicking after lighting is a switch; clicking without lighting is the path

Started after a clean or a boil-over? That is usually the whole diagnosis

Start with the cap and the ports

Sitting flat, ports open, nothing trapped underneath. No part, no charge, and a fair number of these end right here.

The ignition path

Electrode, ceramic, wire and switch. Moisture in an electrode after a clean is the single most common version of this on an indoor range and it often dries out — which is why we test rather than replacing on sight.

Light every burner from cold, twice

Intermittent ignition is only proved by repetition. Every burner, from cold, more than once, before the visit is called finished.

### It started right after we cleaned the hob.

Then it is very likely moisture rather than damage, and it often dries out on its own in a warm kitchen over a day. We mention it because it is a call we are glad not to charge for, and because replacing a sound electrode teaches nobody anything.

### Every burner clicks, even with the dials off.

That is different and worth acting on. Usually moisture across the switch bank or a switch that has stuck, and it means the ignition module is running continuously. Turn it off at the breaker and have it looked at rather than living with the noise.

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