--- title: "Induction zone not working" description: "DCS induction zone not working. One zone dead with the rest perfect is the useful version of this problem — it takes the supply and the main control mostly…" url: "https://dcsmiami.support/symptoms/induction-zone-not-working/" date_modified: "2026-09-14" Appliance type: "cooktop" --- # DCS induction zone not working ### What to do in the next ten minutes Take a pan that definitely works on another zone and try it on the dead one. If it works, the problem was the pan. If it does not, try the good pan on every zone in turn and note which fail — one, some, or all. That pattern is what decides where a technician starts, and it takes three minutes. ### Why the pan is not a trivial question On this technology the cookware completes the circuit — the energy is developed in the pan’s own base rather than delivered to it. No other appliance in the house works like that, so it is entirely reasonable to blame the machine when in fact the pan is what altered. Warping is the subtle version — a base that has bowed over years touches the glass only at its edge and couples poorly, and it happens gradually enough that nobody notices the day it stopped working properly. ### What one dead zone rules out If the supply were wrong, every zone would misbehave. If the main control had failed, the top would be dark. A single dead zone among healthy ones is an unusually tidy piece of evidence, and it means the technician opens the machine already knowing which third of it to look at. It is worth establishing precisely before the visit, including which zones do work. The pan is not suitable or has warped Non-ferrous bases will not couple at all, and a bowed one sitting on its rim barely does. Costs nothing to eliminate and comes up constantly. The zone's connection or sensing has failed Each zone has its own connections and its own temperature sensing. Both fail considerably more often than the coil they are attached to. Cooling is restricted A zone that works alone and drops out when three others are running is being protected from heat, not failing. Fans and airways come before coils. Does a known-good pan work there? The one test worth doing before anybody is called. A magnet on the base takes ten seconds and answers half of these. Does it fail alone or only under load? Alone is the zone. Only with several zones running is cooling, and that is a different and cheaper repair. Is there a code with it? If a code appears, write it down. The published list separates a spill on the controls from a supply complaint from an internal communication error. One zone dead while the others are fine What it usually means Test with a pan you know works before booking anything — a magnet settles it Connections and sensing fail far more often than coils do A zone that only drops out when others are running is a cooling problem What to do in the next ten minutes Take a pan that definitely works on another zone and try it on the dead one. If it works, the problem was the pan. If it does not, try the good pan on every zone in turn and note which fail — one, some, or all. That pattern is what decides where a technician starts, and it takes three minutes. Why the pan is not a trivial question On this technology the cookware completes the circuit — the energy is developed in the pan’s own base rather than delivered to it. No other appliance in the house works like that, so it is entirely reasonable to blame the machine when in fact the pan is what altered. Warping is the subtle version — a base that has bowed over years touches the glass only at its edge and couples poorly, and it happens gradually enough that nobody notices the day it stopped working properly. What one dead zone rules out If the supply were wrong, every zone would misbehave. If the main control had failed, the top would be dark. A single dead zone among healthy ones is an unusually tidy piece of evidence, and it means the technician opens the machine already knowing which third of it to look at. It is worth establishing precisely before the visit, including which zones do work. ### Can a cracked glass top cause this? It can, and a crack that has not reached the surface is not always visible. If the top has been struck or had something heavy dropped on it, mention that — it changes both the diagnosis and what we bring. ### Is a single coil worth replacing? Usually, and it is a smaller job than people expect on a cooktop that is otherwise sound. What we would not do is fit a coil without first proving the connection and the sensing behind it, because those fail more often and cost far less. --- **[Read full article: Induction zone not working](https://dcsmiami.support/symptoms/induction-zone-not-working/)**