--- title: "Range burner clicks and will not light" description: "DCS range burner clicks and will not light: dCS range burner clicking and not lighting." url: "https://dcsmiami.support/symptoms/range-burner-clicks-and-will-not-light/" date_modified: "2026-09-14" Appliance type: "cooktop, range" --- # DCS range burner clicks and will not light ### What to do in the next ten minutes Turn everything off and let the burner cool. Lift the cap off, check nothing is underneath it, and set it back down flat and square. Look at the ports around the ring for anything blocking them. If the burner was recently cleaned or something boiled over, give the electrode a day to dry before deciding it has failed. ### The free fix, and why it is so common A sealed burner cap has to sit flat and square for the flame to travel round the ring and reach the electrode. It is a heavy part with an obvious seating and it is still the thing most often put back wrong — because it goes back apparently fine and only misbehaves when lit. Before anything else, lift it and set it down again properly. It is not a trick; it is simply the most likely answer. ### Wet is not broken After a thorough clean or a serious boil-over, an electrode can be damp enough to divert its own spark and completely sound. Left alone for a day in a warm kitchen it dries and the burner works. We mention it because it is a call we are glad not to charge for, and because replacing a perfectly good electrode teaches the owner nothing. The cap is not seated Rotated, tilted or sitting on debris. The commonest cause of this complaint on any sealed burner and the one owners fix themselves in a minute. The electrode is wet or cracked Moisture after a clean is temporary and dries out; a crazed ceramic is not, and the spark then jumps somewhere useless while looking perfectly healthy. The switch behind the dial has failed The tell is clicking that carries on after the burner is alight. That is a switch that has stopped knowing the dial has moved. Does the clicking stop once it lights? It should. If it continues, the switch is the problem rather than anything in the ignition path. Do the other burners light normally? One burner points at that burner. All of them clicking and none lighting points at the supply or the module. Was anything cleaned or spilled recently? Moisture in an electrode is a matter of days. Knowing that a clean happened last night can save a service call entirely. Sparking away on one ring with no flame What it usually means Lift and reseat the cap before calling anyone — it costs nothing and often ends it Clicking after the flame catches is a switch, not the ignition If it started after a clean or a boil-over, that is usually the whole story What to do in the next ten minutes Turn everything off and let the burner cool. Lift the cap off, check nothing is underneath it, and set it back down flat and square. Look at the ports around the ring for anything blocking them. If the burner was recently cleaned or something boiled over, give the electrode a day to dry before deciding it has failed. The free fix, and why it is so common A sealed burner cap has to sit flat and square for the flame to travel round the ring and reach the electrode. It is a heavy part with an obvious seating and it is still the thing most often put back wrong — because it goes back apparently fine and only misbehaves when lit. Before anything else, lift it and set it down again properly. It is not a trick; it is simply the most likely answer. Wet is not broken After a thorough clean or a serious boil-over, an electrode can be damp enough to divert its own spark and completely sound. Left alone for a day in a warm kitchen it dries and the burner works. We mention it because it is a call we are glad not to charge for, and because replacing a perfectly good electrode teaches the owner nothing. ### Can we use a match until it is repaired? Carefully, yes, on a sealed burner: bring the flame to the ring first and only then open the gas. The habit to break is jabbing the ignitor while gas flows, which loads the area around the burner and lights the lot at once. ### All the burners click constantly, even when off. That is different and worth acting on. It is usually moisture across the switch bank or a switch that has stuck, and it means the ignition module is running continuously. Turn the range off at the breaker and have it looked at rather than living with the noise. --- **[Read full article: Range burner clicks and will not light](https://dcsmiami.support/symptoms/range-burner-clicks-and-will-not-light/)**