Error code
Grill signal Hood or dial lights out
DCS grill · no code is displayed — outdoors this usually means water. Indoors a dead lamp is usually a dead lamp.
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What we can confirm
Signal Hood or dial lights out, from the manufacturer's own documentation
This code has no number, because this equipment has no display to put one on. The appliance signals it instead — an alarm, a symbol or a pattern of lights — and what it means is recorded in the documentation that ships with it.
The signal
Hood or dial lights out
Indoors a dead lamp is usually a dead lamp. On a terrace it is usually water — in a socket, in a connector, in a switch housing that has been taking rain for three years. That distinction matters because corrosion travels along a loom under the insulation, so by the time a light stops working the damage is often already past the fitting. Replacing lamps into a corroded socket is how this becomes an annual event instead of a repair.
or call (305) 526-4714
What it narrows down to
The hood lights, the dial lighting, or both have stopped working.
Diagnostic
From $95, credited to the repair
On the same appliance
What else belongs to the grills
On this make a code belongs to the appliance rather than to a product line. These are the other conditions this machine can display, and the models that can show this one — a display often has more than one thing to say, and the model number decides what any of it costs to put right.
Other codes this appliance can display
The flame has lost its blue and burns yellow or orange.
Nothing lights, on one burner or on all of them.
Flames rise through the grates whenever anything fatty is cooked.
Gas can be smelled at or around the grill.
The grill lights and runs but will not reach its top temperature.
The spit does not rotate, or the rear burner dies when the dial is released.
The same digits mean different things on different equipment. Search the full code list
In more detail
About Grill signal Hood or dial lights out
What the appliance is actually reporting
Indoors a dead lamp is usually a dead lamp. On a terrace it is usually water — in a socket, in a connector, in a switch housing that has been taking rain for three years. That distinction matters because corrosion travels along a loom under the insulation, so by the time a light stops working the damage is often already past the fitting. Replacing lamps into a corroded socket is how this becomes an annual event instead of a repair.
Where this appears, and which table it belongs to
On the appliance's own display. Photograph it before you cut the power: a display that has been cleared has taken the evidence with it, and there is no way to ask the machine for it again. Then check the model, because this make changed hands in 2016 and the two generations share no code string. The same characters mean different things on a Classic ERC oven, an ER-series range and a Modernist induction cooktop, and a meaning read off the wrong table is worse than no meaning at all.
Which machines this one applies to
no code is displayed — outdoors this usually means water. The same number on a different appliance of this make is a different page and often a different repair, which is why this archive is organized by appliance rather than by number. This maker documents codes on 4 of the appliance types this site publishes — bbq grill, cooktop, oven and range — and publishes none at all for bbq grill, beverage center, outdoor kitchen appliance, range and range hood. Those appliances have symptom pages here and no code pages, which is the honest answer rather than borrowing a table from the machine next door.
What to do about it
- Note whether the lights failed together or one at a time. Together points at a supply or a transformer; one at a time points at fittings.
- Do not keep fitting new lamps if they fail quickly. That is the socket telling you something.
- Where the housing has taken water, the repair includes re-routing and sealing so it drains away. Otherwise the same repair is needed next season.
Where this goes next
The job this usually becomes is diagnostic visit, and that page carries a starting figure and the reasons that move it. If it turns out to be nothing — and on this make a real share of these are modes, reminders and settings rather than problems — the visit ends there and you pay the diagnostic and nothing else, or call (305) 526-4714 and describe what the panel is doing before booking anything.
This article is based on:
- Official manufacturer documentation
- Internal repair procedures
- Technician repair history
- Company quality standards