Error code
Grill signal The grill will not light
DCS grill · no code is displayed — work backwards from the supply. Three separate systems can produce this and they are checked from the far end inwards: the supply, the ignition, then the burner.
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What we can confirm
Signal The grill will not light, from the manufacturer's own documentation
This code has no number, because this equipment has no display to put one on. The appliance signals it instead — an alarm, a symbol or a pattern of lights — and what it means is recorded in the documentation that ships with it.
The signal
The grill will not light
Three separate systems can produce this and they are checked from the far end inwards: the supply, the ignition, then the burner. Working the other way round is how people end up replacing an ignitor on a grill whose cylinder valve was never fully open. The single most useful test costs nothing — if a burner lights from a match but not from the ignitor, the gas is arriving and the problem is the spark.
or call (305) 526-4714
What it narrows down to
Nothing lights, on one burner or on all of them.
Diagnostic
From $95, credited to the repair
On the same appliance
What else belongs to the grills
On this make a code belongs to the appliance rather than to a product line. These are the other conditions this machine can display, and the models that can show this one — a display often has more than one thing to say, and the model number decides what any of it costs to put right.
Other codes this appliance can display
The flame has lost its blue and burns yellow or orange.
Flames rise through the grates whenever anything fatty is cooked.
Gas can be smelled at or around the grill.
The grill lights and runs but will not reach its top temperature.
The spit does not rotate, or the rear burner dies when the dial is released.
The hood lights, the dial lighting, or both have stopped working.
The same digits mean different things on different equipment. Search the full code list
In more detail
About Grill signal The grill will not light
What the appliance is actually reporting
Three separate systems can produce this and they are checked from the far end inwards: the supply, the ignition, then the burner. Working the other way round is how people end up replacing an ignitor on a grill whose cylinder valve was never fully open. The single most useful test costs nothing — if a burner lights from a match but not from the ignitor, the gas is arriving and the problem is the spark.
Where this appears, and which table it belongs to
On the appliance's own display. Photograph it before you cut the power: a display that has been cleared has taken the evidence with it, and there is no way to ask the machine for it again. Then check the model, because this make changed hands in 2016 and the two generations share no code string. The same characters mean different things on a Classic ERC oven, an ER-series range and a Modernist induction cooktop, and a meaning read off the wrong table is worse than no meaning at all.
Which machines this one applies to
no code is displayed — work backwards from the supply. The same number on a different appliance of this make is a different page and often a different repair, which is why this archive is organized by appliance rather than by number. This maker documents codes on 4 of the appliance types this site publishes — bbq grill, cooktop, oven and range — and publishes none at all for bbq grill, beverage center, outdoor kitchen appliance, range and range hood. Those appliances have symptom pages here and no code pages, which is the honest answer rather than borrowing a table from the machine next door.
What to do about it
- Check the supply first: the cylinder valve fully open, or the wall valve on natural gas, and whether the cylinder has been changed recently.
- Open the valve slowly. Opening it quickly can trip the cylinder's own flow limiting device, which then passes too little gas to light.
- Please do not keep pressing the ignitor with the dial on and gas flowing. If it has not lit in a few attempts, turn everything off and let it clear.
Where this goes next
The job this usually becomes is diagnostic visit, and that page carries a starting figure and the reasons that move it. If it turns out to be nothing — and on this make a real share of these are modes, reminders and settings rather than problems — the visit ends there and you pay the diagnostic and nothing else, or call (305) 526-4714 and describe what the panel is doing before booking anything.
This article is based on:
- Official manufacturer documentation
- Internal repair procedures
- Technician repair history
- Company quality standards