Error code
Grill signal Not hot on HI or SEAR
DCS grill · no code is displayed — a supply symptom in most cases. Everything works and nothing is hot enough, which is nearly always about how much gas is arriving rather than about the burners.
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What we can confirm
Signal Not hot on HI or SEAR, from the manufacturer's own documentation
This code has no number, because this equipment has no display to put one on. The appliance signals it instead — an alarm, a symbol or a pattern of lights — and what it means is recorded in the documentation that ships with it.
The signal
Not hot on HI or SEAR
Everything works and nothing is hot enough, which is nearly always about how much gas is arriving rather than about the burners. A cylinder whose flow limiting device has activated is the classic version — it passes enough to light and run gently, and never enough for a sear. Beyond that it is the regulator, a supply that collapses under load, or burners so restricted that they cannot pass their rated flow. Time matters too: a grill that has not been given fifteen minutes to come up with the hood down is not underperforming, it is not finished preheating.
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What it narrows down to
The grill lights and runs but will not reach its top temperature.
Diagnostic
From $95, credited to the repair
On the same appliance
What else belongs to the grills
On this make a code belongs to the appliance rather than to a product line. These are the other conditions this machine can display, and the models that can show this one — a display often has more than one thing to say, and the model number decides what any of it costs to put right.
Other codes this appliance can display
The flame has lost its blue and burns yellow or orange.
Nothing lights, on one burner or on all of them.
Flames rise through the grates whenever anything fatty is cooked.
Gas can be smelled at or around the grill.
The spit does not rotate, or the rear burner dies when the dial is released.
The hood lights, the dial lighting, or both have stopped working.
The same digits mean different things on different equipment. Search the full code list
In more detail
About Grill signal Not hot on HI or SEAR
What the appliance is actually reporting
Everything works and nothing is hot enough, which is nearly always about how much gas is arriving rather than about the burners. A cylinder whose flow limiting device has activated is the classic version — it passes enough to light and run gently, and never enough for a sear. Beyond that it is the regulator, a supply that collapses under load, or burners so restricted that they cannot pass their rated flow. Time matters too: a grill that has not been given fifteen minutes to come up with the hood down is not underperforming, it is not finished preheating.
Where this appears, and which table it belongs to
On the appliance's own display. Photograph it before you cut the power: a display that has been cleared has taken the evidence with it, and there is no way to ask the machine for it again. Then check the model, because this make changed hands in 2016 and the two generations share no code string. The same characters mean different things on a Classic ERC oven, an ER-series range and a Modernist induction cooktop, and a meaning read off the wrong table is worse than no meaning at all.
Which machines this one applies to
no code is displayed — a supply symptom in most cases. The same number on a different appliance of this make is a different page and often a different repair, which is why this archive is organized by appliance rather than by number. This maker documents codes on 4 of the appliance types this site publishes — bbq grill, cooktop, oven and range — and publishes none at all for bbq grill, beverage center, outdoor kitchen appliance, range and range hood. Those appliances have symptom pages here and no code pages, which is the honest answer rather than borrowing a table from the machine next door.
What to do about it
- Give it a full preheat with the hood down before judging it. Fifteen minutes is not a formality on a grill this size.
- If it is on LP, turn everything off, close the cylinder valve, wait a minute, then open the valve slowly before relighting. That resets a tripped limiting device.
- If it still will not sear, the supply is measured under load. A regulator that is perfect at rest tells you very little.
Where this goes next
The job this usually becomes is diagnostic visit, and that page carries a starting figure and the reasons that move it. If it turns out to be nothing — and on this make a real share of these are modes, reminders and settings rather than problems — the visit ends there and you pay the diagnostic and nothing else, or call (305) 526-4714 and describe what the panel is doing before booking anything.
This article is based on:
- Official manufacturer documentation
- Internal repair procedures
- Technician repair history
- Company quality standards